Fractured Lacerations - Build - I Broke my Knife!

[hansgoudzwaard]

Saw this on another site, so here you are. Not anything like your sketches.

1

KICK1.JPG (63.6 KiB) Viewed 2484 times

2

KICK2.JPG (89.01 KiB) Viewed 2484 times

3

KICK3.JPG (123.18 KiB) Viewed 2484 times

[Customize IT]

Thanks!

Made something that might be able to be called a kickstand?

I made it removable to repair or throw away if it does not work.

Here is all the parts laid out.



Outer Sleave showing the slot and the 90 off it is the lock for the slides.



Showing the location of the inner slide pin on the outer tube to make sure it stops when pulled out.



Showing the inner slide tube slot with 90 this is just for stopping that tube in the right location. Also showing the bearings I used on it.



This slot is for the inner rod. The inner rod have to travel out so far i needed a support for it that is why this tube is there.



The inner inner rod for the unit.



Showing the 3 pieces being put together.



This is the pin bolt for the inner slide tube to stop it from sliding all the way out. It goes in the slot with the 90 in the inner tube.



Showing it in that slot.



The main pin bolt for the assembly this one pulls the inner slide out and also locks the unit in position in.



Showing the unit in in locked position. I turned it upside down even and shook it for ten minutes it never opened. Remember it is turned and locked on both of those slots with 90s the inner and outer pins.





Fully extended





Showing the cover over slot to water prof the assembly.



Then end slides in a hole in the frame.



I made enough tolerance so that the parts that stick out can be painted or powder coated.



A lock washer goes on the inside of the frame.



Then a 3/4 allen bolt is put in.



A jam nut was turned down to lock the foot.



A knurled piece of aluminum goes on for the foot turned at about the same width as the frame. It is not exact so the knurl came out right by the math.



Showing it installed and the design I put on the outside.



The unit extended on bike.



In the riding position locked.



On the stand.

[Customize IT]

Thanks!

Front weight 190 Rear 230 Total 430 now

Should be right about at my goal when done with bike weight being 525 lbs dry no fluids same as stock weight.

Front



Rear



gas tank
head light
tail light
battery and box with electronics
seat
rear fender
handle bars
not wieghed

[Customize IT]

I was able to get the first of the sheet metal tools I need. A planishing hammer from china. 100$ and I made a stand for it. Will be making some dies for it also.

It will hopefully do what I need it to do will fine tune and maybe strengthen more while I save for the other tools.



The modifacation needed to the tool. Adding bolts to hold the hammer better. They sell replacement hammers for 15 $.



Comes with 3 andvils 1, 2, 3 in radius but will make strecher dies and hotdog dies for it also with neopreme ends and different radius.





Played around on a piece of 20 ga scrap.

[gearhead1951]

Take a 500 to 1000 lb mechanical arbor press and drill a hole into the business end and tap it for the threads on a soft replaceable hammer head face ! Then drill a hole app 1/4 " larger than that in a length of hard wood ! Put the hole in place under the ram and set a piece of sheet metal over it ! Apply force to the ram and then shift the sheet metal enough so the next dent you press overlaps the last one ! Press a row of dents this way and see how much shape you have created ! Your power hammer cant clean up the irregularitys as fast as the press can if you slide the board so that the ram now contacts a flat surface and go over it again with the press ! If you can find it , the tool I just described was featured in www.streetrodder.com a long time age !
Great tool for RAPID creation of fenders and any other thing that needs compound curves ( I think it is better than an English wheel for small jobs )

[Customize IT]

I can not find it?

Searched watched videos there for about 2 hrs?

I am interested just can not find ant info?

[Customize IT]

Got my english wheel and did some modifacations to it.

This has to be the best tool I have bought from them. They must have been listening to the complaints on it or I got lucky and bought the best one they ever made!

I ground all the mating surfaces free of paint bolted together and welded the joints.









The unit wants to tip forward when rolling if not mounted to floor so I welded anouther foot to it to fit.





I was ready to turn the upper wheel between centers because they have said the are not concentric. Mine was true to .0005 so not going to worry about that! There is reports of them being .060 out and regularly .020 out so not sure if the changed their process of making them or I am one lucky s.o.b? Also all the bearings were in good condition unlike some have said they got them stuck not turning.



The side was under the reports for these also being only .005 out and the reports being more than .025 out. They had to change something I think? but I see not need to machine them to be any truer.



You will see videos of side to side play between the wheels and I got .020 play here going forward and back and could be taken all the way out with washers or spacer to hold the upper and lower die in position but it does not effect the process as I can tell. I really thought most of my repair work would be in this area but it either has been repaired in the manufacturing process or I am a lucky s.o.b!

I was going to mill a slot in the shaft to keep the lower die from turning but it has been done already.



They also have made the shaft to holder tolerances tighter and added a grease cert so they can make it a better tolerance. In the videos you can see .030 play here and it is no longer there!



It really seems to be a decently crafted machine especially for the price on sale with 20% off coupon out the door I paid 246$ with the tax on it. You can not buy brand name dies for that!





There is deflection in the arm for upper die because the steel is thin in the tubing. It is less than a 1/16th of a inch and I was going to plate the c frame each side to repair but, it really does not seem to hurt the curving process and easily produces and does what it is suppose to do.

Here is some scrap i tested it with.

[Customize IT]

I got me a shinker strecher unit with the stand from Harbor Fright. I will use this to form the lower edges of the sides of my tank for the welding. The tools leave marks on the metal from the tools so they are not really good for anything else.

In typical harbor fright machines work has to be done and they did not let me down this time! Bolts missing, plans not updated, and holes drilled in wrong locations but, it seems to do the job at very respectable pricing after that is repaired. I paid with them both the stand and machine units on sale and 20% off coupon of 246 out the door with tax.

This streching unit mount was drilled 1/2 hole off and had to open up with a air grinder. They changed the way the bar mounts for foot operation and sent both ways to do it and no documentation of how they wanted it done. Also the bolts for mounting both units to stand were not included but, luckly they made standard thread but, they had to be chased with a tap to remove the paint from the threading on both devices shinker and strecher.



The stand feet are wobbly with just the bolts made for them. Even if you cranked them down would just crush the thin tubing so the feet were welded.



Also the stand for the shrinking side needed trimmed to allow for the curving metal. I just cut off with a grinder to repair.



Showing a rough process just to present the operation of what these were designed to do.

On the bottoms of the tank there will be a fold to weld the pieces together first to make this you need to brake a 90 in the steel.





Then to shrink just push the foot pedal and move the metal to the curved shape you want.





Same process for the strecher.



Then use together to get the complex curves you need. Be carefull because they can only work the metal so much it will deform it to the point the metal fatigues.





This machine will do what I need to do and the price was right for the small repairs that was needed to make optimum for the process.

[Customize IT]

The last of the tools to buy a throatless shear.

I got it for 115$ on sale with 20% off coupon. This machine will not work out the box it will chip the blades and be junk if you try to cut anything even paper with it. They do none of the tuning of the machine in and all surfaces are only rough cut. They do not tell you this in the manual but you have to grind the surfaces and get the play out the handle while keeping the blades able to alighn.

First thing I did was to temper the blades and try to relive some of the hardness out of them to make more ductile.
I did this by cranking my oven up in the house to 550[all the way] and putting the blades in for a hr and then let cool slow until room temp.





You can see what i mean here by the machining done on them and even the manual says:

Check for alignment and binding of all moving
parts, broken parts or mounting fixtures and any
other condition that may affect proper operation.
Any part that is damaged should be properly
repaired or replaced by a qualified technician.


and this is what you have to do out the box!



Even the blade hits the main casting here and needs ground out and smoothed top and bottom.







Then grind with a flap wheel and fit each piece until there is no play in the handle and it still operates smoothly. It will get better as you go but, you have to think out which piece needs ground to make it work.







Even the handle lever actuation rear bracket does not clear the main housing as it should I gound it even more from this pick so the metal will pass under it.



A picture of one set of mating surfaces after ground.



After you got all the surfaces ground to where the handle will not move the blade edge on arm back and forth set the blades to between 1/4 to 1/10 of the metal you plan to cut. It should not cut paper to work on metal.



The upper blade mount location was fine on mine but the lower was in real bad shape and needed ground dremeled and filed to make right.



After about 8 to 10 hours work grinding unbolting and reasembling untill the machine acted correctly I was able to make complex cuts with out killing my hands with hand shears. This may seem alot of work but, I saved over 400$ and got a tool I can use. I got no money but much elbow grease.

[hansgoudzwaard]

FYI.

Lowbuck stuff.

http://www.homemadetools.net/lowbuck-helve-hammer

[budoka]

be careful, man. soon you'll be making the tool to make the tool to make the part to build the bike, LOL. (i'm guilty, too)

looks like you got some decent tools now, and the experience is invaluable.

-dan

[Customize IT]

THANKS! I think I can make a finger nail die for my hammer to do that? maybe?

gearhead1951 I made the press you told me about it works REALLY well! THANKS!!! hope you like it?

Made a sheet metal arbor press out a old press i had laying around. It was drilled to accept a replaceable hammer end. It presses into a nylon I turned to be 1/4 in larger than the hammer end to form the metal.

I also mounted the shear on the stand.

There is a set of build pics for a demo only of how the tools are used with each other to rough form a tank top. The top is not for the bike!

The stand with shear, shrinker, strecher, and press on it.











Demo of using the tools together to make a tank top.

Layout



Cutting







The press



You by hand overlap the presses and go around the outside in a row and then move in make another row repeat and slowly work the metal.







It will then need shrunk and or streched to relive these wrinkles. you can go back and forth to the press then shrink/strech press shrink strech untill it cuves enough. to get a major curve you go to the planishing hammer after roughing it in back to the shinker or strecher.







Before the english wheel or planishing hammer.



I roughed this enough to show a form and then took to the wheel to show it really has about the right shape even with just roughing a demo.





You would hand dolly this then trim the edges with a hand shear. Or keep working until you got it more curved if that is what you wanted by moving across each machine.



Now got most of the tools made to start.

[Customize IT]

I got my tank buck made. This will allow me to make paper templetes from it for the shapes and also check my work when making the sheet metal curves to the buck.

First got the shape for the top of center of tank and backbone.



Used my band saw to cut the shapes out in hardwood plywood.





Screwed these pieces together in a way that the buck can be taken apart down the centerline of tank.



Then used paper to get the shape for the sides of tank at widest point of the tank and fixed it with screws and nails to the centerline pieces..





Then started at the mid of the largest curve where it transfers to a less dramatic curve on the side. Made a paper templete.



Repeated until the front tank curves where made. Place them close enough so the sander you are using flat edge can transfer across each one.



Sanded the joining pieces to transition the curves between them.



Repeat until the full buck is done sanding each piece to make the next divider transition piece templete.







On the bike. Now to make the buck for the rear fender.

[gearhead1951]

The LPMF (low psi metal forming) tool is the best fender maker you could have !

Just like you did on the tank top , draw 3 parallel lines down the length of a cut to shape sheet of metal with the first one down the center line and the others an equal distance apart on each side of that one ! Do the center first then the other two !

When you are happy with the shape of the piece you can replace the forming head with one with a flat end and put a flat surface under the ram , This set up will take most if not all the tucks and bumps out of the piece leaving only a little fine tuning to be done ! This will greatly reduce the need for planishing and /or wheeling !

[Customize IT]

Thanks!

Got the rear mudgaurd/fender buck done. Will buy some steel next week and make some tims.